Sarajevo Travel Guide

While I originally visited Sarajevo with the intentions of doing research, I ended up falling in love with so, so much of Sarajevo + their people I’d recommend visiting regardless of research. With a beautiful meshing of East & West, the culture, cuisine and opportunities to take in beautiful outdoor scapes are just a few reasons why you must add this destination to your bucket list! Sarajevo may be small but it is filled with so, so much human history and culture it’s an ideal destination if you especially love those two things. A mix of Zagreb, Vienna and Istanbul, Sarajevo is known as the European Jerusalem due to its monuments of 4 main monotheistic religions. WWI began in Sarajevo, the Winter Olympics were hosted there in ‘84 and was also the location of a recent war + genocide.

To Do

Free Walking Tour - I’ve linked the group I went through given how positive my experience was! A free walking tour is a great way to get the layout of the city + be directed to points you may have noticed, but not understood the significance of. For example, all around Sarajevo are red painted spots known as “Sarajevo Roses” that are a reminder of the mortar shelling from both earlier + recent history.

Full Day Srebrenica Genocide Private Tour - in going to Sarajevo, my main purpose for visiting was visiting sites at the heart of the Bosnian Genocide, a topic I had been studying, researching and writing on for nearly 5 years. While this portion of history isn’t for everyone I can’t recommend this tour group enough if you choose to make it a part of your experience. The topics of war and genocide are complicated and uncomfortable but are essential in learning about to ensure they do not continue happening. I truly believe travel is important because it exposes us to others different, yet the same. Take your travel experiences as an opportunity to learn and grow, you won’t regret it.

On this particular tour we started the day around 8 am meeting at the tour shop and spending the next two or so hours on the road towards Srebrenica. The scenery on the way is grogeous! We even saw a group of wild horses - we were able to pull over and take photos but didn’t get too close! This was really special as a group of women traveling from Mongolia has never seen horses before and were even more excited when I was able to share my (small) background riding. During the drive the guides will explain how the war + genocide came to be with a mix of personal and historical references and photos. On the way and the closer you get you pass through many towns that had similar events take place. Acts of genocide took place all over the country, Srebrencia is just the largest site of such attrocities. Some of these towns include, Sokolac, Vlasenica, Milici and Zaklopaca, Kravica, Nova Kassaba, and Bratunac.

Our first stop was at Memorial Centre Potocari. Here, we participated in a locally guided tour and history lesson at the memorial centre with a guide. The guide in charge themselves is a survivor of the events and was very open to discuss and answer questions. I found this part particularly helpful in my research (skip to the tab about that to learn more). Here, over 6500+ were held. Additionally, you explore the Dutchbat UN base where you can see and understand the failure of the international community.

After the centre, we had the opportunity to visit the graves and other sites and memorials around there. It is sombre and shocking how many headstones there are and how fresh the graves dug are. Remains found - some of which were actually found while I was on this tour at one of our stops - are constantly being added to allow a final resting place and dignity.

After around three hours at our first stop, we made our way to Srebrenica town for a bit of exploring and lunch. While lunch isn’t provided, meal discussion is over more history and just chatting amongst everyone- something the tour guides made even more enjoyable than expected. We got back into Sarajevo around 6 or 7!

‘84 Olympics Bobsled Track - While I personally didn’t do this it was highly recommended as something to do! You can walk the abandoned track - either solo or with a guide. There is a ton of graffiti you can view as well!

Bascarsija - In Sarajevo's historic downtown area, this is a must-visit area. With a winding maze of alleys and shops, you’ll love getting lost, trying local bites + enjoying all there is to offer.

The Tunnels - during the seige in the 1990’s, these tunnels were constructed by citizens so food and supplies were able to come in and locals could escape out.

Vrelo Bosne - One of the country’s top natural landmarks, the “spring of Bonsia” is beautiful and something you can’t miss while exploring the city.

Religious Sites - Commonly refered to as the Jerusalem of Europe, Sarajevo has many different religious sites both stunning + historical from Catholicism, Orthodoxy, Islam and Judaism.

Presidential Palace + Town Hall - Both excellent examples on the history of the Austro-Hungarian empire, be sure to dive into to these rich parts of Sarajevo’s history.

Gallerija 11 07 95 - My absolute favorite stop is this small but powerful gallery focusing on the genocide + narrative of Srebrenica. The stunning gallery details the massacre via photographs and documentary movies. Be sure to get the audio guide - it’s worth it!

Latin Bridge - while this might not be the main landmark, this bridge has massive historic significance as the location of where Franz Ferdinand + his wife Sofia were assassinated ultimately starting the First World War.

The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque - This (still) operation is a religious monument is located in the heart of Sarajevo’s Bascarsiia district is a must see. The building is beautiful with Ottoman architecture and the courtyard is so stunning.

Sarajevo Brewery - Dating back to 1854, this is supposedly the first establishment to start a systematic production of beer in Sarajevo. You can visit the museum or even arrange a tour of the brewery.

Sebilj Brunnen (Fountain) This fountain is the landmark of the old city and something you’re likely to stumble upon while wondering around. Water from here is drinkable!

To Eat

Cevapi - it looks like a sausage made from minced beef or mutton. It’s Bosnia’s national disk and something I’ve been recommended over and over!

Somun - a type of Bosnian flatbread resembling pita bread, which comes with a plate of cevapi.

Baklava - it’s not super traditional for Bosnia but the sweet dessert is a delicious must!

Borek - The ubiquitous snack in bakeries around Sarajevo and most of the Balkans uses filo pastry with either minced meat, spinach, cheese or potato fillings. You can buy these buy the slice or even the whole “pie” and are widely available around Sarajevo! Hands down, this was my favorite thing I had in Sarajevo!

Klepe - If you like ravioli or pierogis, the klepe is a Bosnian dumpling filled with either beef, lamb or cheese. The dish comes with a garlic sauce or yoghurt.

There are MANY, MANY more bites to try! Be sure to keep an open mind and be ready for hearty, delicious meals!

My Research

Like I’ve mentioned throughout the post, what initially brought me to Sarajevo were years of researching the Genocide that took place here in the early to mid 90’s. In my time here, I conducted interviews, saw things first hand and really rounded up my research. While there is a lot to study from these experiences, I focused on how the genocide, specifically the systematic use of sexual violence - something even locals don’t talk about to this day- has informed international law & policy. If you’re interested on learning more, I recommend checking out deposition from the War Crimes Trials for first hand accounts and articles found here, here and here. As you can see, there is not a lot of published information on the topic and certainly isn’t widely taught in an educational setting or in law courses.

Tips

Know the difference between Bosnian and Bosniak - with a complicated history, this tiny difference in spelling is actually a huge difference. A Bosniak is an ethnic Muslim; a Bosnian is someone from Bosnia, or their nationality. There are Bosnian Bosniaks (Muslims), Bosnian Serbs (Orthodox Christians), and Bosnian Croats (Catholics). Honestly it probably won’t come up, but if it does know the difference.

Not as good of exchange rates - unlike neighboring countires, the exchnage rates in Bosnia take up to 5 percent. If you can, consider exchanging outside of Bosnia. If you do need to echange in Bosnia, all of the office can be found along Ferhadlia Street.

Have cash on you - Bosnia is a cash-based society. While some places do take card and there are ATMs, there is typically is up to a 7 percent fee. To be safe, plan on cash.

Don’t get into politics - unless you really know your stuff, it’s best to stay out of politics. Bosnia has gone through a lot in the past decades and is still healing. Take in the history but remember you are in no place to comment beyond rage that the international community didn’t do more.

Wander Here - central streets are safe for walking, even into the late evening. Less busy areas around the city should be traveled with a guide though. Keep to the basics of safety rules and keep an eye on private things when in crowded areas just like you would any other time.

Feel free to Tip - tips are welcome for almost every service almost in all places, typically 10% of the cost of the rendered service.

Athens, Greece Travel Guide

A magical place of historic ruins, friendly locals, amazing bites and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a destination you can’t miss! My first (and only) time in Athens was actually to serve local NGO’s as part of a college internship. I worked with refugees and locals to help families and individuals find legal services, meals, clothing and provided childcare and English lessons. While it was NOT a typical travel experience, it remains one of the most profound experiences I’ve had in my life. While MOST of my time was spent working, the spare time we had on breaks and after work was spent exploring solo and with peers. I sincerely can’t wait to get back to explore even more and (especially) Island hop!

Walking Tours: If you’re spending a decent amount of time in Greece or just Athens (3 days+) I highly recommend booking a walking tour to get the feel and layout of the city on your first day. Since I was working in Athens I didn’t need to do this as part of orientation was basically a walking tour BUT if you’re visiting as a traveler I really couldn’t recommend this enough! There are both paid and free options depending on your budget!

Acropolis Museum: This museum is absolutely incredible and something you MUST see when you visit. Depending on when you do visit, this is a great way to escape the heat and learn more about the Acropolis, Greek history and culture. On one of my few days off I went here first before heading over to the Acropolis.

Acropolis: Going to see this is a MUST! It is one of the most iconic pieces of history in Athens specifically and it truly stunning to look at and then see views of the city. Getting up there is bit of a hike so if you’re with littles or inclines present an issue for you, see what options are available to assist. Be sure to take your time up here and really take in all the views!

The Ancient Agora: Located next to the Acropolis, this agora is one of the best- know examples of agoras from ancient Grecian times. If you’re already at the Acropolis be sure to take some time to check this out!

The Temple of Olympian Zeus: While not totally together still, this temple was once a hug temple at the center of the Greek capital. It was dedicated to Zeus - an Olympic God from ancient Greek mythology.

The Library of Hadrian: Also located near the Acropolis, now ruins, this building is assumed to have been a very early Christian church that was ultimately destroyed and excavated centuries later.

Panathenaic Stadium: When I was living in Athens during my time working there, our apartment was actually located right across the street from the stadium so I saw this almost every single day. Even if you are close, make a point to go check it out and walk around! The stadium is directly related to the Olympic Games we have now and actually hosted the 2004 Games. This is where the Olympic Flame originates and is taken to be delivered all over the world for all seasons Games.

Phillopappos Hill: Not only can you check out the monument - an ancient mausoleum and monument dedicated to a prince, you can also take in stunning views of the city up here. It is a bit of a hike so drink water but take your time taking in the amazing views!

Vouliagmeni Beach: If you DO have time to get out to an Island or two, I recommend it (it’s one of the things I wasn’t able to do while I lived in Athens for a short stint) However, if you can’t but are looking for some beach action there are countless spots not to far outside of the city including this beach. There are tons of beach front bar with villas and comfy chairs!

If you’re interested in volunteering while in Athens, here is some information on the NGO’s I worked with while in Athens. Of course - be sure to contact ahead of your visit to be able to best serve the community and please be sure to serve with dignity in mind. You might notice I’m not sharing any photos of my time volunteering. I do this purposefully given how vulnerable many of the folxs I worked with - many of which are children - are. Additionally, be sure to seek resources to be the best volunteer as possible. Despite 80+ hours of training to prepare me for this experience there were many experiences that to this day I’m not sure I could have prepared myself for. Do realize this is not your average volunteering.

Caritas - This is where I worked in the mornings and early afternoons providing help with meals & childcare. Be sure to contact for all volunteer opportunities here.

**since writing the blog, the site where I worked most has unfortunately shut down - if you are interested in serving in similar areas to serve refugee communities see more here**

• A proper Greek meal - our first night we were treated to a MANY course Greek meal with amazing vegetable dishes, hummus, olives, different types of meats and many types of classic Mediterranean bites.

• Iced Coffee and Freddo Cappuccino - like in many parts of Europe, the coffee here just hits different. Be sure to try a coffee - or ten!

• Amygdalota - a GF almond cookie that is super popular and super yummy! Our apartment was around the corner from an amazing bakery so - we tried tons and tons of different sweets!

• Baklava - you might have tried this before you visit but if not, be sure to! It’s that much better when in Greece. This sweet treat is philo dough containing nuts, butter and sugar that is baked. Once out of the oven a syrup or honey is poured on top making it the perfect sweet, crispy bite.

• Courgette Balls - somewhat similar to falafel in texture, these little balls are often appetizers at restaurants and are super flavorful and delicious!

• Dolmadakia - These stuffed grape leaves are another favorite and actually something I grew up eating! Typically filled with meat (lamb or beef), rice and veggies these are usually served as a side (or if you really like them - your main dish!)

• Greek Salad - If you love a fresh bite, veggies or yummy feta cheese this is for you. Typically with cucumber, olives, feta cheese, tomatoes and some other local and seasonal bits this yummy “salad” is perfect on a hot day!

• Gyros - you might have had these outside of Greece too but if you don’t have one in Greece - were you really in Greece?

Archeological Sites are closed on Sundays - Additionally, most sites close by 3pm with the exception being the Acropolis which is open until 7pm. They all open quite early at 8am so be sure to get in early if you want to give yourself time or plan on trying to see multiple sites in one day.

Brush up on your history - you don’t have to do this, but it does help give a basis for understanding why some tall carved out stone things matter so much in architecture.

If you want to see the Acropolis Museum, don’t plan to go on a Monday - it’ll be closed.

Beware of pickpockets and similar thieves - all around Athens there are a ton of pickpockets - many of which are children. Typically working in pairs these kids are really smart and will distract you - asking for money, showing off a skill or something similar to snatch something of value. Be careful!

There are a ton of cats in Athens - for one reason or another there are an ungodly amount of cats in Athens. So many one day when we were walking to work we couldn’t even cross the street because it was filled all the way across with cats. Given that they’re feral be very careful if you try to approach. Some are sweet but there certainly are some not-so-nice ones.

Squatting toilet aren’t uncommon - due to older pipes - like OLD pipes - many places utilize a squating toilet so be prepared if this is new to you. It’s a bit of a shock at first but actually not too bad. Additionally - DO NOT flush toilet paper (or really anything) down the pipes that isn’t naturally from you. Plumbing here will be wrecked if you do and trust me you don’t want that!

You can drink the water here - however, if you have a sensitive stomach I do recommend checking into filtered water.

It’s not the cleanest city - while Athens is a fine city with amazing history, it definetly is not the cleanest. There is a lot of garbage and grafitti - it doesn’t ruin things but can be a shock to some especially if you are used to visualizing just the historic sites.

If you have multiple days in Athens, consider doing a trip to one (or a few) of the Islands!

Choose your hotel location carefully - the metro is efficent but some places just aren’t quite as safe after dark as others. Be sure to do your research and account for the walk with your luggage.

Cash is king - while there are ATM’s all over the city it really is most helpful to keep cash or coins on you.

Avoid restaurants with pictures of their food and someone waiting outside trying to get you to come inside - these are typically tourists trap type places and won’t usually give you the authentic experience you (might) be looking for.

Be prepared for smoke - like many European countries, people still smoke here - a lot. It can be a huge difference in comparison to the US especially since many don’t smoke here. If you’re sensitive do your best to sit outside for fresh air or try to steer clear of smokers as best as you can.

Nightlife gets started here late - if you want to go out here don’t plan to start before midnight. Many Greeks don’t go out until 2am and typically go out to dinner around midnight.

Tipping isn’t a must - like most of Europe, waiters have a salary that accounts for tips directly from sales unlike we have in the US. You CAN tip for phenomenal service but it isn’t a necessity.